From Windmills to Wildlife: Foxton's Unique Charms
An unforgettable exploration of Foxton's iconic windmill and the captivating world of migratory birds
De Molen
After living in New Zealand for a few decades, Dutch immigrant Jan Langen had an idea. He was living in Foxton, an area that reminded him of home. It was flat and windy, just like much of the Netherlands. The only thing it lacked was a windmill. So, he decided to build one.
Of course, it took some time to pull together the permissions and money required. The local community got right behind the idea and chipped in to see a replica 17th-century Dutch windmill in their town.
Of course, no one in New Zealand had the expertise to build it, so that was the next challenge. The team must have been pretty determined!
They managed to find the materials and expertise they needed – the construction is a marvel of wooden engineering. The sails alone weigh 8 tonnes. They are attached to a top section (cap) that weighs a further 18 tonnes. This top section can be rotated by just one person to allow the sails to either catch the wind or turn away from it.
‘One person can turn that single-handedly?’ I was astonished.
‘Yes, I turn it on my own,’ came his response.
‘Would someone my size be able to do it?’ I asked, cheekily.
‘Let’s give it a go!’
He showed us onto the deck that surrounds the mill and holds a shaft attached to the cap. The shaft was locked into place with a series of chains that he undid.
‘Turn it this way.’ The wheel was like a ship’s helm, only bigger. I reached up to grab one of the handles and pulled. Nothing. I tried harder, using my entire weight, and the wheel started to move, inching the cap of the windmill round. Wow! After a few degrees, I handed over to Mike, who found it a little easier to turn the wheel. We secured it again with its chains.
What incredible engineering!
Inside, the engineering is just as impressive. Since 2003, the windmill has been functional. Every wheel and cog fits together perfectly, and everything is regularly oiled, greased or waxed. It all seems to be in perfect condition still. Building the windmill was a labour of love, as is maintaining it. A millwright from the Netherlands was so impressed with the windmill that he spends his annual holidays in the area and checks it over while he’s there.
Manawatū River mouth and estuary
That was an exciting start to the new year but not the sole intention of our visit to Foxton. We also wanted to head to the tiny Ramsar site on the nearby estuary. The site is designated because it is nationally important for migratory birds, with around 95 different species having been spotted there.
A viewing platform allowed us to see what birds were nearby, and the pictures and names on the interpretation board helped us enormously – we have only just set out on our birdwatching journey.
Around 90 bar-tailed godwits were standing at the water’s edge. These nondescript brown birds with long beaks have an incredible story to tell. Māori thought they were mysterious because they had never seen one nest. We now know that is because they breed in Alaska. Birds arrive in New Zealand from September onwards, having flown for 8-9 days without a break. The young ones are only a few months old but stay for a few years. Then, when they are ready to breed, they depart in March for an annual 11-12,000 km migration back to Alaska via China. These birds are still common in New Zealand1 but their lifestyle is far from common!
Other birds we saw included Caspian terns, white-fronted terns, black-billed gulls, lesser knots and spur-winged plovers, the final one thanks to some bird watchers we met on the beach (and plan to meet again in Singapore on the way home).
Just around the corner from the Ramsar site, it was like my idea of hell on earth. A large car park was full of petrolheads unloading quad bikes and off-road motorbikes, then setting off noisily over the dunes. Some were even riding (illegally) over the protected area, totally disregarding the birds.
Foxton Beach and Kuku Beach – what a contrast!
Foxton Beach itself was no better. We were not the only people who thought it might be nice to head to the coast on New Year’s Day. Thousands of people were on the sand, and many had driven their cars onto the narrow strip between the sea and the dunes. Children and adults played beach games on the sand, while cars drove up and down. This is not my idea of a great day out at the beach!
We departed quickly, on the hunt for a quieter stretch of coast. Kuku Beach was just over the estuary, so we headed back inland, over the river and along the coast to find our way there. What a contrast! Between the car park and the beach, we tried to avoid the areas where there were birds, but we were still mobbed by stilts and black-backed gulls until we had reached the far side of the dunes. The sandy beach arced south over the horizon, where it was bounded by hills. A succession of waves swept ashore, and the outline of Kapiti Island rose dramatically in the distance. The beach was deserted, except for some driftwood and a few thousand jellyfish – no need to dodge cars here, but no swimming either!
Join me next week as we embark on a thrilling visit to Kapiti Island, a predator-free wildlife reserve. Delve into our journey and decide for yourself whether the experience was worth the cost!
Although common now, their numbers are declining due to habitat loss around the Yellow Sea. This is expected to be exacerbated further as global heating allows scrub to grow on their tundra breeding grounds.